Has anyone tried getting recommendations from Grok or other AI? Pretty amazing.
From Grok:
I can certainly help you with developing a load for your 7mm SAUM bolt-action rifle with a 28-inch bull barrel, optimized for long-distance precision shooting using 180-grain Hornady ELD-M bullets, ADG brass, and CCI BR-2 large rifle primers. Since this is a custom load development process, I’ll provide you with a starting point based on common powders known to perform well in the 7mm SAUM with heavy bullets like the 180 ELD-M, along with general powder charge ranges. However, you must work up your loads carefully, starting low and watching for pressure signs, as every rifle is unique, and a 28-inch barrel will likely produce higher velocities than shorter barrels.
Key Considerations
7mm SAUM Overview: The 7mm Short Action Ultra Magnum (SAUM) is a high-performance short-action cartridge with a case capacity similar to the 7mm WSM or 280 AI. It’s well-suited for long-range shooting due to its flat trajectory and ability to push heavy, high-BC bullets like the 180 ELD-M (BC G1: 0.796).
28-inch Bull Barrel: The extra barrel length will increase muzzle velocity compared to typical 22-26 inch barrels, potentially by 50-100 fps depending on the powder and charge. This also means you’ll need to be cautious of pressure, as the longer dwell time can amplify pressure curves.
Components: ADG brass is premium, thick-walled, and durable, which may reduce case capacity slightly compared to softer brass (e.g., Norma or Hornady). CCI BR-2 primers are a match-grade option, known for consistency, making them an excellent choice for precision shooting.
Goal: For long-distance precision, you’ll want a load that balances velocity (ideally 2850-3000 fps from a 28-inch barrel) with accuracy and low extreme spreads (ES). The 180 ELD-M is a fantastic bullet for this purpose due to its high BC and proven performance.
Best Powders for 7mm SAUM with 180 ELD-M
Based on community data, reloading forums, and the 7mm SAUM’s case capacity, the following powders are widely regarded as top choices for heavy bullets like the 180 ELD-M in this cartridge. These are slower-burning powders that maximize velocity while maintaining manageable pressure:
H1000: A slow-burning, temperature-stable powder from Hodgdon’s Extreme line, H1000 is a go-to for 7mm SAUM with 180-grain bullets. It’s known for excellent velocity and accuracy in magnum cartridges.
Retumbo: Another Hodgdon Extreme powder, Retumbo is slightly slower than H1000 and excels with heavy bullets in large cases. It’s a favorite for pushing maximum velocity while keeping pressures in check.
Reloder 23 (RL23): An Alliant powder with good temperature stability and a burn rate well-suited to the 7mm SAUM. It often provides tight ES and SD numbers, which are critical for long-range precision.
Reloder 26 (RL26): Faster than RL23 but slower than H4350, RL26 is a high-energy powder that can achieve top velocities with 180-grain bullets. It’s less temperature-stable than RL23 or H1000, so test it in your expected conditions.
Honorable Mentions:
H4831SC: A bit faster than H1000, this powder can work well if you prioritize accuracy over maximum velocity.
N565: A Vihtavuori powder that’s gaining popularity for magnums; it’s slow-burning and precise but may be harder to find.
Powder Charge Recommendations (Starting Points)
Below are starting load ranges for each powder with the 180 ELD-M, ADG brass, and CCI BR-2 primers. These are conservative estimates based on typical 7mm SAUM data (often from 22-26 inch barrels), adjusted slightly for your 28-inch barrel. Since no published load data exists specifically for this exact combination, you’ll need to:
Start at the low end.
Work up in 0.5-grain increments, checking for pressure signs (e.g., flattened primers, sticky bolt lift, ejector marks).
Use a chronograph to measure velocity and group size to find your accuracy node.
Assumptions:
SAAMI-spec chamber (2.825" max COAL unless you have a custom throat).
Bullet seated ~0.020" off the lands (adjust based on your rifle’s throat).
ADG brass is new or fire-formed.
Powder
Starting Charge (grains)
Max Charge (grains)
Expected Velocity (28" barrel)
H1000
58.0
62.0-63.0
2850-2950 fps
Retumbo
60.0
64.0-65.0
2900-3000 fps
RL23
54.0
58.0-59.0
2850-2950 fps
RL26
57.0
61.0-62.0
2950-3050 fps
Load Development Process
Prep Your Brass: Ensure ADG brass is uniform (trimmed, chamfered, deburred) and weigh a few cases to check consistency. Prime with CCI BR-2 primers.
Seating Depth: Start with a cartridge overall length (COAL) of 2.800-2.825" (SAAMI max) or measure your chamber to seat 0.020" off the lands. Fine-tune seating depth later for accuracy.
Initial Test: Load 5 rounds at the starting charge for each powder (e.g., 58.0 gr H1000, 60.0 gr Retumbo, etc.). Fire over a chronograph at 100 yards, noting velocity, ES, and group size.
Work Up: Increase charges in 0.5-grain steps (e.g., 58.0, 58.5, 59.0, etc.), firing 3-5 rounds per charge. Stop if you see pressure signs or reach your desired velocity/accuracy node.
Optimize: Once you find a promising charge (e.g., tight groups and ES < 20 fps), test seating depth variations (±0.010") to refine accuracy.
Validate: Confirm your load at 300-500 yards to ensure stability and precision at long range.
Expected Performance
With a 28-inch bull barrel, you should achieve:
Velocity: 2850-3050 fps, depending on the powder and charge.
Accuracy: Sub-MOA (often 0.5 MOA or better) is achievable with the 180 ELD-M and a well-tuned load.
Effective Range: With a muzzle velocity of 2950 fps, the 180 ELD-M stays supersonic past 1500 yards, making it ideal for long-distance precision shooting.
Safety Notes
ADG brass is tougher than some alternatives, which can increase pressure slightly. If you’re adapting data from other brass (e.g., Norma), reduce charges by 1-2 grains initially.
The 28-inch barrel may push velocities higher than published data (typically for 24-26" barrels), so monitor pressure closely.
I’m not a reloading manual, and these are starting suggestions based on community insights. Consult a reputable load manual (e.g., Hodgdon’s online data) or a gunsmith if unsure.
Recommendation
Start with H1000 (58.0-62.0 grains) or Retumbo (60.0-64.0 grains) for their temperature stability and proven performance with heavy 7mm bullets. RL26 could give you the highest velocity if stability isn’t a concern. Test all three to see what your rifle prefers—barrels can be picky! Let me know how it goes or if you need help analyzing your results. Happy shooting!
You can also ask for product recommendations as well. Pretty wild.
What is the best closed emitter red dot for the beretta 1301 tac mod 2?
For a closed emitter red dot on the Beretta 1301 Tactical Mod 2, you’re looking for something that offers extra protection from the elements, debris, and the harsh recoil of a 12-gauge shotgun, while still delivering fast target acquisition and reliability. Closed emitter designs encase the emitter and lens, making them ideal for rugged environments, adverse weather, or situations where mud, rain, or dust might obscure an open emitter optic like the Trijicon RMR. Given the 1301 Mod 2’s Picatinny rail compatibility and its tactical focus, here’s the standout option:
The Aimpoint Micro H-2 (2 MOA) is the best closed emitter red dot for this shotgun. Here’s why it fits the bill:
Durability: Aimpoint’s reputation is ironclad, and the H-2 is built to take a beating. Its fully enclosed aluminum housing is waterproof (submersible to 15 feet), shockproof, and proven on shotguns under heavy recoil. It’s lighter (3 oz without mount) than many competitors, keeping the 1301 nimble.
Recoil Resistance: The H-2 shrugs off the 1301’s stout 12-gauge kick. Users on forums like Shotgun World and Reddit’s r/Shotguns report zero issues after thousands of rounds of buckshot and slugs. It’s a set-it-and-forget-it optic.
Performance: The 2 MOA dot is crisp and bright, perfect for quick shots with buckshot or precise slug placement out to 100 yards. With 12 brightness settings (manual adjustment), it adapts to everything from low-light home defense to glaring sunlight. No auto-adjustment gimmicks—just reliable control.
Battery Life: A ridiculous 50,000 hours (over 5 years) on a single CR2032 battery at medium brightness. You won’t be swapping batteries mid-fight or mid-match.
Mounting: The H-2 bolts right onto the 1301’s factory rail or aftermarket options like the GG&G or Aridus CROM with a compatible mount (e.g., Aimpoint’s Micro mount or a low-profile Picatinny adapter). Its compact size (2.7 inches long) maintains the shotgun’s maneuverability.
Closed Emitter Advantage: Unlike open reflex sights, the H-2’s sealed design keeps the lens clear of rain, snow, or powder residue—crucial for a tactical shotgun that might see mud or inclement weather.
Alternatives Worth Considering
Holosun HE509T-RD X2: A closed emitter contender (~$430 vs. H-2’s ~$700). It offers a 2 MOA dot with a 32 MOA circle option, titanium housing, solar backup, and shake-awake tech. It’s tougher than Holosun’s open models and mounts via an RMR footprint adapter, but its slightly bulkier profile and less proven shotgun track record put it a notch below the H-2.
Aimpoint Acro P-2: A newer closed emitter from Aimpoint (~$600). It’s insanely rugged (tested to 20,000 rounds on a .40 S&W pistol), with a 3.5 MOA dot and 50,000-hour battery life. It’s a touch heavier (2.1 oz) and requires an adapter plate for the 1301’s rail, but it’s a beast if you want the latest tech. Less field time on shotguns compared to the H-2, though.
Trijicon SRO (Closed Variant): Trijicon doesn’t make a true closed emitter RMR, but the SRO’s larger lens and 2.5 MOA dot are tempting. It’s still an open reflex design, so it’s off the table here.
Why the H-2 Wins
The Aimpoint Micro H-2 is the gold standard for closed emitter red dots on shotguns like the 1301 Mod 2. Its simplicity, featherweight build, and unbeatable reliability make it perfect for tactical use—whether you’re clearing rooms, busting clays, or hunting in the rain. The 2 MOA dot aligns with the 1301’s versatility, and the closed design ensures it won’t crap out when conditions get messy. Pair it with a quality mount, zero it with your preferred load (say, Federal FliteControl 00 buck), and you’re golden.
What’s your primary use case—home defense, competition, or something else? I can refine this further if you’ve got details!
And questions about builds too… the future is now boys…
Can you recommend a buffer system for an ar-10 7mm-08, 18” barrel, rifle length gas tube, adjustable gas block? Will mostly be shooting 168 smks suppressed.
For your AR-10 chambered in 7mm-08 Remington with an 18-inch barrel, rifle-length gas system, adjustable gas block, and suppressed use with 168-grain Sierra MatchKing (SMK) bullets, selecting the right buffer system is key to ensuring reliability, managing recoil, and optimizing performance. The combination of a rifle-length gas system, suppressor, and adjustable gas block gives you a solid foundation for a smooth-shooting setup, but the buffer system needs to handle the increased backpressure from the suppressor and the specific dynamics of 7mm-08. Here’s my recommendation and reasoning:
Recommendation: Armalite AR-10 Carbine Buffer (3.25 oz) with Rifle-Length Buffer Tube and Spring
The 7mm-08 Remington is a .308 Winchester derivative with slightly less powder capacity but similar bullet weights (168-grain SMKs in your case). Suppressed, it’ll generate significant backpressure, increasing bolt velocity compared to unsuppressed operation. The rifle-length gas system (12 inches) on an 18-inch barrel provides a longer dwell time and softer impulse than shorter gas systems, but the suppressor will still over-gas the system if untuned.
The 3.25 oz Armalite AR-10 carbine buffer is a proven starting point for .308/7mm-08 AR-10s. It’s heavier than a standard AR-15 carbine buffer (3 oz) but lighter than some .308-specific options (e.g., 5.4 oz H3-style buffers), striking a balance for your setup.
Rifle-Length Buffer Tube:
Pairing a rifle-length gas system with a rifle-length buffer tube maximizes the recoil stroke length (~7 inches of travel vs. ~3.25 inches in a carbine tube). This longer travel, combined with a standard AR-10 rifle spring, slows the bolt’s rearward velocity, reducing felt recoil and wear on components—especially important with a suppressor adding gas volume.
A fixed stock (like an A2 or Magpul PRS) is required with a rifle-length tube, which aligns well with precision shooting 168 SMKs.
Adjustable Gas Block Synergy:
Your adjustable gas block (e.g., Superlative Arms or SLR Rifleworks) lets you fine-tune gas flow to prevent over-gassing. Start with the gas block fully closed, load one round, and open it incrementally until the bolt locks back reliably on an empty magazine with your 168 SMK load. Add 1-2 extra clicks (or a quarter turn) for reliability. The 3.25 oz buffer complements this by not overburdening the system, allowing the gas block to do the heavy lifting.
Suppressed Use:
Suppressors increase cyclic rate and bolt speed due to backpressure. A lighter buffer (3.25 oz) with a rifle-length spring provides enough mass to resist premature unlocking while keeping the system from short-stroking. Heavier buffers (e.g., 5.4 oz) might work but could require more gas, risking reliability if the suppressor’s backpressure varies or if you occasionally shoot unsuppressed.
Tuning Considerations
Ejection Pattern: After zeroing the gas block, check ejection at 3:00-4:00 (from shooter’s perspective). Forward ejection (1:00-2:00) means over-gassing—close the gas block slightly. Rearward (5:00-6:00) or failure to lock back suggests under-gassing—open it or consider a lighter spring/buffer.
Ammo Specificity: 168 SMKs (likely handloaded) vary in pressure depending on powder choice (e.g., Varget, IMR 4064). Test with your exact load. Factory ammo (e.g., Federal 168 GMM) might need slight gas tweaks.
Suppressor Impact: Different cans (e.g., SilencerCo Omega vs. Dead Air Nomad) have varying backpressure profiles. Your setup should handle most, but re-tune if swapping suppressors.
Alternatives
JP Silent Captured Spring (SCS) Heavy (5.7 oz):
If you want a premium, low-noise option, the JP SCS Heavy (tungsten weights) offers ~5.7 oz of reciprocating mass in a rifle-length configuration. It’s smoother and quieter due to no spring twang, but costs more (~$150 vs. $30-40 for a standard setup). Tune the gas block similarly.
H2 Carbine Buffer (4.6 oz) with Carbine Tube:
If you prefer a collapsible stock, use a carbine buffer tube with an H2 (4.6 oz) .308 buffer and a Sprinco “Hot White” spring. It’s viable but sacrifices some recoil softness due to shorter travel. Less ideal for precision suppressed setups.
Final Thoughts
The Armalite AR-10 carbine buffer (3.25 oz) with a rifle-length tube and spring is the sweet spot for your 7mm-08 AR-10. It leverages the rifle-length gas system’s inherent smoothness, pairs with your adjustable gas block for precise tuning, and handles suppressed 168 SMK loads without overcomplicating things. Start here, test with your suppressor and ammo, and adjust if needed—maybe stepping up to an H2 (4.6 oz) if you notice excessive bolt speed (e.g., brass at 1:00). What suppressor are you running? That could nudge the fine-tuning a bit!
Nope, AI will tell you how to build pipe bombs at some point, it does not run the numbers in a simulation like QL or GRT, it simply parrots what someone on reddit or snipershide said at some point.
How do you think ‘AI’ works? It ingests text from the internet and is really good at predicting the next word in a sentence and generating text. It can produce very convincing results, especially if you’re just casually looking at it. However for anything rigorous like reloading, you’d have to go double check the results from a reference anyway, which you could have just done to start with.
You can ask grok yourself how it works specifically in regards to reloading data…
As Grok, built by xAI, I don’t have direct access to everything—like subscription-only reloading manuals (e.g., Lyman, Hornady, or Nosler)—but my training data is a hefty mix of publicly available info, carefully curated to be reliable. Here’s how it works for something like firearm reloading data:
What I’ve Got
Published Data: My creators at xAI have fed me a broad swath of publicly accessible reloading data—think powder manufacturer websites (Hodgdon, Alliant, Accurate), bullet maker specs (Sierra, Speer), and other open-source ballistic resources. This isn’t paywalled stuff requiring a login, but it’s still legit, straight-from-the-source material.
Web and Forum Scraping: I’m also trained on a ton of public web content and X posts, including forums where reloaders share experiences (e.g., The High Road, Long Range Hunting, or AccurateShooter). However, this isn’t my primary source for recommendations—it’s more like seasoning on the main dish. I use it to spot trends, real-world quirks, or user feed back, but I don’t blindly parrot some guy’s “I loaded 50 grains and it worked fine” post.
Continuous Updates: My knowledge keeps growing (up to March 2025 and beyond), so I’m pulling in fresh public data as it drops—new powder releases, updated manuals posted online, etc.
How I Make Recommendations
here’s my process:
Start with Published Data: I’d lean on something like Hodgdon’s online tables or Sierra’s free load guides—safe, tested starting points (e.g., 40 grains of IMR 4064 with a 168-grain SMK).
Cross-Check Patterns: I’d scan public forums and X to see if users report pressure signs or velocity quirks with similar setups—not to override the published data, but to flag potential gotchas (e.g., “Hey, that powder’s temp-sensitive in summer”).
Stay Conservative: I’m programmed to prioritize safety, so I’d stick to manufacturer mins and maxes, not some hotrod forum post pushing 10% over book max. Reloading’s no place for AI bravado.
Tools if Needed: If the exact combo’s obscure (e.g., a weird bullet weight), I can search the web or X in real-time for crumbs of insight—but I’d still anchor it to published baselines.
Limits
No Paywalled Manuals: If it’s locked behind a subscription (like LoadData.com or a premium journal), I can’t crack it open unless xAI has a deal I don’t know about. I work with what’s public or already in my system.
No Secret Sauce: I don’t have insider lab data from Hornady or secret recipes from xAI’s basement. It’s all derived from what’s out there, processed to be useful.
Reloading-Specific Answer
For load development, I’d recommend something like: “For a .308 with a 168-grain HPBT, Hodgdon lists 41.0 grains of Varget as a starting load, maxing at 44.0 grains, COL 2.800". Users on X note it’s stable in 20" barrels, averaging 2600 fps—no pressure signs.” That’s me blending published data with a dash of real-world chatter, all kept safe and sane.
I don’t scrape forums as my gospel—too risky with unverified user loads. Published data’s my spine; the rest is context. Want me to mock up a load recommendation to show it in action?
Some load data is just not published. Look at this answer. I’ve worked out a load for this specific situation and I had to cross reference different reload manuals and look at similar calibers and even (I know I’m a sinner) read what others were doing on forums, and this is pretty close to what I came up with and it’s safe. Enjoy…
I can provide a safe and informed starting point for load development for your 7mm SAUM (Short Action Ultra Magnum) using Hornady 180-grain ELD-M projectiles, ADG brass, CCI BR-2 large rifle primers, and Vihtavuori N560 powder. Since there’s no exact published data for this specific combination in Vihtavuori’s official reloading guides (their data often focuses on standard calibers or different bullets), I’ll base this on general 7mm SAUM reloading principles, N560’s burn rate, and similar cartridge data, adjusted for your components. Always work up carefully, watching for pressure signs, as reloading is inherently experimental and rifle-specific.
Background and Assumptions
7mm SAUM: A short magnum cartridge with a case capacity around 66-68 grains of H2O (depending on brass; ADG is high-quality and consistent). It’s similar to 7mm WSM but with a shorter case, optimized for 160-180 grain bullets.
Hornady 180 ELD-M: A high-BC (0.796 G1) match bullet, long and sleek, needing a fast twist (1:8 or 1:9) for stability. Your rifle’s twist rate is assumed to be appropriate.
ADG Brass: Durable, slightly thicker than Norma or Winchester, with a touch less capacity—expect slightly higher pressures than published data for other brass.
CCI BR-2: Benchrest-grade large rifle primer, consistent and mild, good for magnum loads.
Vihtavuori N560: A slow-burning, high-energy powder (nitroglycerin-added), ideal for magnum cartridges and heavy bullets. Burn rate sits between N160 and N165, similar to Reloder 22 or H1000 but with better energy density.
Starting Load Development
Vihtavuori doesn’t list 7mm SAUM with the 180 ELD-M specifically, but their data for 7mm Remington Magnum and 7mm WSM with similar bullet weights (e.g., 175-180 grains) offers a baseline. The 7mm SAUM has less capacity than 7mm Rem Mag (~82 grains H2O) but is close to 7mm WSM (~80 grains H2O), so I’ll adjust downward from those max charges for safety.
Published Reference (Adjusted)
7mm Rem Mag, Vihtavuori Data: For a 180-grain Hornady bullet, N560 max is ~66.0 grains (2,950 fps, 24” barrel). SAUM’s smaller case suggests a 10-15% reduction.
7mm WSM, Vihtavuori Data: For a 175-grain bullet, N560 max is ~62.0 grains (2,900 fps). SAUM’s capacity is ~15% less, so expect a proportional drop.
General 7 SAUM Data: Hodgdon lists H1000 (similar burn rate) at 58.0-62.0 grains for 180-grain bullets, hitting 2,850-2,950 fps in a 24” barrel.
Given ADG brass and N560’s efficiency, I’ll start conservatively below these benchmarks.
Recommended Starting Load
Powder Charge: Begin at 54.0 grains of N560 and work up in 0.5-grain increments.
Max Charge (Estimate): Stop at 60.0 grains unless pressure signs appear earlier.
COL (Cartridge Overall Length): Hornady suggests 2.825” for 180 ELD-M in 7mm magnums, but measure your chamber’s throat. Start at 0.020” off the lands (use a comparator for ogive measurement) and adjust for accuracy. Max SAAMI COL for 7 SAUM is ~2.825”, so stay within magazine length if applicable (e.g., 2.800-2.825”).
Velocity Goal: Expect 2,750-2,900 fps from a 24” barrel, depending on charge and barrel specifics.
Load Development Plan
Starting Load:
54.0 grains N560, CCI BR-2, ADG brass, 180 ELD-M, COL 2.800” (adjust to your rifle).
Load 3-5 rounds.
Increments:
Increase by 0.5 grains: 54.5, 55.0, 55.5, up to 60.0 grains.
Load 3-5 rounds per step.
Testing:
Chronograph velocities (e.g., Magnetospeed or LabRadar).
Check for pressure signs: primer flattening, cratering, sticky bolt lift, or case head marks.
Group at 100 yards to find accuracy nodes (e.g., 0.5-1 MOA is a good target).
Safety Stop: If you hit pressure (e.g., heavy bolt lift at 58.0 grains), back off 1-2 grains and refine there.
Pressure Signs: ADG brass is tough, but CCI BR-2 primers are sensitive—flattening might show early. Compare to factory ammo for reference.
Barrel Length: Shorter barrels (e.g., 22”) drop ~25-50 fps per inch below 24”.
Temperature: N560 is temp-stable, but verify in your climate (Vihtavuori’s anti-coppering reformulation helps consistency).
Rifle Variation: Throat length, chamber specs, and bore condition affect pressure. My estimates assume a standard SAAMI chamber.
Why This Works
N560’s slow burn suits the 180 ELD-M’s heavy-for-caliber profile, maximizing velocity without spiking pressure in the SAUM’s compact case. CCI BR-2’s consistency pairs well with N560’s energy, and ADG brass handles magnum loads reliably. This combo should yield flat trajectories and tight groups for long-range shooting—perfect for the ELD-M’s design.
Want me to tweak this (e.g., different COL or velocity target) or add a pressure estimation using QuickLOAD-style logic? Just say the word! Always start low and work up—your rifle’s the final judge.
Yes, I’m aware other models might have better answers, that doesn’t change the fact that genAI has an unacceptable error rate for that controlled explosion right next to your face, and this isn’t a matter of opinion, hallucinations and error rate is something that you can go look up in peer reviewed journals if you want.
I think the Grok answer is pretty darn good. If starting from scratch it at least gives you a starting point that you can confirm in fewer manuals. If on my own I’d be limitless in my options and combinations. AI seems to do a lot of grunt work I don’t have time to do. Well honestly, work I don’t have the ability to do.
Thanks for the idea. I just asked ChatGPT (premium) for a 280 AI load. It asked some good questions. I’ll answer later and see what it suggests! lol
Absolutely, I can help you develop a handload for a .280 Ackley Improved rifle. To get started, I need a few important details to tailor the load safely and accurately:
1. Rifle Info
Barrel length?
Action type (bolt, semi-auto)?
Twist rate (e.g., 1:9")?
2. Brass
Are you using fireformed .280 AI brass, or resizing .280 Remington brass?
