I recently purchased a Tikka T3X lite stainless in 300 WSM. I plan on threading the muzzle for a brake but have read mixed reviews on threading to that contour of barrel (roughly 0.625”)
Curious if anyone on here has had that rifle or similar threaded for a brake or muzzle device?
I am not sure myself, but I might actually call Silencer Central. They have a mizzle threading mail-in service and do really good work. Even if you chose someone else, I think they can give you a definitive answer.
I’ve had my Tikka T3x Super Lite threaded for a suppressor and it worked really well.
I learned the hard way that you have to be sure the barrel has enough meat on it for the process. On my Savage 116, the barrel is too thin for just threading the barrel so my gunsmith put a threaded adapter (not sure if I’m using the right word for what it is) on the end of the barrel. Turns out that the barrel is too thin for a suppressor overall as the added weight on the end of the barrel can’t be supported by the barrel. With the supressor on, the gun’s accuracy is erratic. Suprerssor off, sub MOA. Make sure you talk to your gunsmith about the strength of the barrel, make sure it can support the weight of the can.
I’ve had a smith chop and thread a T3x super lite (w/ fluting) in 6.5 creedMoor and a T3x (w/o fluting) in 300 wsm. Both are now 1/2-28 and work fine.
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Silencer Central did my 7mm-08 Tikka. They threaded it 5/8-24 and had me put an adaptor in there. It works great. No compromise in accuracy and the thread adaptor is no big deal. I would call them to discuss. Their mail in service is super easy and super fast also
My ten cents is 1/2-28 removes a bit too much unless you plan to cut the barrel down. I find the Tikka T3X sporter barrel works well with a 9/16-24 thread.