Just following along with the Scoping a Precision Rifle course and I’m to the part where Jim talks about not using loctite on the rings. Just a third idea to use it or not use it. I talk with Leupold yesterday for an hour about the scoping process and their recommendation is to use it BUT add a dab to the screw and thread the screw in without the scope in the ring, then immediately take it apart and let the loctite cure for 24 hours. Reassemble. The theory is this avoids over torqing by not having the loctite act as a lubricant.
What do you guys think? Does that make sense or would it still act as a lubricant even after curing?
I’m not 100% sure I understand. You’re saying I put glue on the screws for the ring tops, screw it in, then let it dry, then break the picture to unscrew it and then put the rings on?
That process sounds a bit convoluted in my opinion.
My process is to put a dab of blue loctite on the scope base thread hole and a dab on the screw (repeat for each screw) and let it set for ~15-20 minutes.
Once the time has passed, I start to assemble with scope in the rings and verifiied to be level, then attach the top rings and follow a criss-cross pattern to do the initial tightening. Once I have all the screws to an initial tightening (basically finger tight), then I will break out my in-lb torque wrench (Wheeler Engineering digital in-lb torque wrench) and torque down to the spec (usually around 15-18 in-lbs from my experience).
They were saying after your scope mount and rings are on and the rings are aligned add blue loctite to the scope ring screws, put them together without the scope itself, and then take it all apart right away and let it all dry separate. This gets the threadlocker down in the threads and on the screws. Then when you reassemble dry you will not over torque.