Hi guys, I have recently discovered that the .22 CreedMoor is the caliber rifle I am looking for to kill dear, coyotes, varmints and also long range shooting. The problem, the guns are stupid expensive 
I am considering buying a Tikka T3X Lite in 22-250 1 in 8 twist and having it re-chambered to .22 CreedMoor. I would be using Preece Precision as the gunsmith to do the work for $300. Is this a good idea or a bad idea? Is this worth the money? Or would it be better to keep saving until I can get one built that will be like 2-3 thousand? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Is a 1-8 twist 22-250 much different than a 22 creed?
Not by a whole lot, but it would be a better/easier long range option and the heavier bullets would be better for deer (is it viable for Mule deer, no idea).
I would think with the 1 in 8 as said would allow the heavier bullets and same mv as the 22CM. Surprised that Tikka does that twist for 22-250. BTW I have a Browning 1885 falling block single shot in 22-250. Hexagon barrel. It is so much fun to shoot.
I was thinking of getting this and then having the barrel re calibrated for .22CM
So the gun would be like 818 then 300 for the rechambering the barrel then another 100 for a threaded muzzle. So probably like ~$1,250 after all is said and done. Seems like a lot cheaper option then getting one of the “cheaper” $2000-$5000 rifles available for a .22 CreedMoor. Anyone got any thoughts on this? I really appreciate everyone’s help on this.
What about the stock? a mdt or a cf stock would be nice and should be part of the overall value proposition. Same for trigger. If those are added in you are back at $2K You will want an arca rail mount as well. Not sure how that fits on the tikka stock. I think it is really hard to get the same value by piecemeal. If you had the tikka already - maybe.Also by your costing not a ss action? And you are also stuck with the infamous tikka mags. You could go to aics mags and get 10 round ones for coyote hunting with a better stock solution. Also some say the barrel is too thin to thread. But not sure for a 1/2 x 28 on a 22 can.
Just my 2 cents worth and other things to consider.
That sounds like a good plan. 1:8 is good for 22 Creed if I remember right. I’d go for it.
Another option - It wouldn’t cost much more to get a prefit barrel from preferred barrel blanks. $470 and you screw it on yourself. Tikka Prefit Gun Barrel | Tikka T3 / T3X Pre Fit Barrels
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That’s really cool. But won’t the new barrel have to be chambered still?
For the link that he provided , those barrels are chambered to your specifications.
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Sounds like you’re in my neck of the woods. Preece is who I’m having build my 22 CM, just waiting on the rifle stock. Haven’t used him as a gunsmith yet, but I’ve heard nothing but good reviews so far. I have used Performance Guns before and he was great, might be worth calling and comparing prices.
I’m calling it now - 22 CM is going to dominate the Backfire Range challenge long term!
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That is awesome man! I sure wish I could afford to have a sweet custom rifle built right now. That sounds awesome. Good for you man. I hope it is awesome 
I like the idea of having Preece rechamber the 22-250 Tikka barrel so I do not have to wait 3 months plus to get the gun ready to shoot 22 CM. Do you guys see any downside to having the 22-250 barrel rechambered to 22 CM?
Jim, have you heard or seen any truth to the rumors of how difficult it is to take off the factory barrel on a Tikka? I’ve been looking at throwing a heavier contour barrel on mine but am not sure that I want to if it is going to be as difficult as everyone says it is (heating then cooling the action several times and then still having to exert 100ft-lbs into it for it to break loose).
I’ve taken two off. It’s difficult but not beyond what the man can accomplish in his garage.
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These are the tools I used…
I used kroil and let it sit for a day or two. I reapplied the kroil every so often.
Then once I got the receiver wrench on I gave it a good whack with a two pound hammer and it loosened right up.
In fact, I think the last step is the most important. tikka must use some crazy adhesive on their receiver threads and it needs a good jolt to come loose.
The second one I took off I didn’t use kroil. I just whacked the receiver wrench handle with a two pound hammer and it came right off.
It may cause scuffing on the corner of the flats of the receiver but you could put some tape on it or something.
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