I am interested to hear who has silencers here and which brands/models they have tried. I just yesterday received my Dead Air Nomad 30 (which was one Jim’s top recommendations at the time–my purchase was nearly a year ago, but now that wait times are coming down, I may want to add another sooner than later!)
…I will update this thread when I have had a chance to put this through some paces, but I am especially curious about some of the Banish products from Silencer Central (I didn’t have the best experience ordering via Silencer Shop). Banish 30 vs. Gold, also the Buck 30, and Backcountry. If anyone has opinions to share on any of these, I would love to hear it!
Been purchasing suppressors since roughly 2003. Own several from Surefire, Dead Air, Q and more recently Thunder Beast arms. Do not own any from banish.
I can’t say that I feel like any of them are superior to another.
Personal opinion, suppressor reviews get really messed up. People focus on the decibel reduction but no one can agree on how to measure that. Furthermore, the decibel reductions that most people are quoting are too small for most humans to appreciate. Furthermore again, even if one suppressor was noticeably more quiet than another, none of them take a supersonic rifle and make it hearing safe. Therefore even with a quieter suppressor you’re going to need ear protection at least if shooting it frequently.
Subsonics are a different story however. They really can make a difference.
Things to consider for a hunting rifle, in no particular order are:
Length and weight. If you’re hunting out of a tree stand you don’t want something that’s going to turn your rifle into a 30 plus inch behemoth.
This also, at least in theory would lead to less point of impact shift as placing a heavier lever at the very end of your Barrel would cause more of a shift than a lighter one.
Method of attachment. Some people really like the QD type of mounts, others prefer the direct thread. Really depends upon your specific situation and what your needs are. Also a lot of the newer cans are coming out with hub compatible mounting. That way you can switch things around.
No change in accuracy between unsuppressed and suppressed.
Other things might play a role. If you’re looking at shooting a bunch of AR rifles and doing them quickly, then you might want something that’s full auto rated. If you’re doing night hunting and using thermal/infrared you might want something with less of a thermal/infrared signature. Some people like to take their suppressors apart so they can be cleaned. Other people prefer not to as the high heat typically keeps them clean.
Oh, and edited to add,
If looking at a high velocity rifle be sure to look at the suppressor specs. They often will have a minimum barrel length that you cannot go under without voiding the warranty.
I only have a Banish 30. Very happy with it but I have nothing to compare with. I like that I can go 7 or 9 and all titanium. I have two more coming for 223 and 22.
Sort of expensive thing to start trying a bunch of different ones for the average joe.
I have 2 of the GSL Multi-Cal cans and they work really well. They use a QD attachment (a flash hider style or a muzzle break style), I prefer the muzzle break style. I also have 2 Harvester Evo’s that are direct thread. Both brands do about the same as far as my old ears can tell… the Evo’s are mounted on a.308 Win and a 300 Win Mag and that’s where they live for now. The GSL’s I have mounted and shot on a 22LR, .223 REM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmoor, a .270 Win, and a .308 AR-10. So I have used them on rimfire, AR-15’s, AR-10’s, and bolt actions.
Yeah totally! And given what they are, it makes no sense they are so expensive; I kind of want to spend less, like go with the Buck 30, but if someone says, “I got one of those and also have or tried a normal Banish 30…I would go with one or the other because X, Y, or Z reasons”–that’s kind of what I’m hoping for. Or I can try to piece it together from individual reports. I read one person on this forum report they did not have a good experience with the Backcountry, so far. From other reviews the Banish 30 seems to be well-liked. But I have heard zero about Buck 30, and zero direct comparisons of the different products to one another (probably because it is expensive to own a bunch of different ones)
Yeah, if weight is the thing that matters most you’d probably have to pick the (titanium) Backcountry model. If not… the Buck 30 is only 13.8 oz, which is less than my current Dead Air Nomad 30 at 14.5 oz , and the same is true of the Banish 30 in its full length config (14.3 oz). Both those options are more expensive than the Buck 30, too. Looks like the Buck is actually a bit quieter than the Backcountry model (advertised 131 db for .308 vs. 135 db). I guess it’s just trade-offs. On price (and db reduction?) Buck 30 wins, on weight the Backcountry wins, and on flexibility, the Banish 30. Or, at least that is how it is presented.
My only negative experience with a suppressor was with a Q erector. It’s a Rimfire can and it’s modular. By modular it means that it comes with little baffle pieces that you can stack together and create the suppressor to the specific length you want. Longer obviously more unwieldy but better sound suppression, shorter less good sound suppression but easier to handle. I forget the exact number of possibilities but it’s a lot. I want to say it’s like 10 or 12 different pieces.
But, putting it together and taking it apart requires the use of a specific special tool made by Q, and that was included in the Box which then is hooked up to a torque wrench that you provide.
So after owning this thing for less than a week and doing some experimenting to try to figure out what length I wanted to settle on I decided to go full long. I double checked my torque wrench settings but as I was tighten it in down I should have said to myself this doesn’t feel right. Sure enough I fused the entire thing together and then when trying to take it apart the specific tool doesn’t have enough purchase to make it work. I talked to q, they basically said if I torqued it that heavy that I fused the aluminum pieces together and there’s no way it’s going to come apart. I checked my torque wrench yet again afterwards and yet again it was set exactly as specified. But I tested it on some other things and it wasn’t acting right. So my fault for using a less than ideal torque wrench.
But upon reflecting further, the idea of having to keep a special tool around and keep track of it in case you want to change something, I’ve got enough stuff on my workbench as it is. Then you also have to treat every single baffle piece as a suppressor. The ATF has very specific rules regarding that. You can’t just leave them on your bench.
So, in the end, no more modular suppressors for me.
It still works. But now it’s forever fused in its long state
One other thing to keep in mind, in this really isn’t specific for the suppressor companies but more for the rifle companies, is appropriate threading on the barrel.
Many of the suppressor companies have stated online that for anything larger than a 22 caliber suppressor, you really need 5/8 * 24 threads. Half inch threads just don’t have enough meat to hold a suppressor on especially with repeated firing.
Of course you’ll find dozens if not hundreds of people who purchase thread adapters to go from one half inch threads to 5/8 or whatever else you need and they do well with no troubles… However the companies point out you still have half inch threads holding on to everything and they’re just not strong enough.
So if I’m thinking about buying a new firearm that I might want to shoot suppressed I’m really looking for something that comes with beefier threads, typically 5/8 * 24.
You may want to check this out:
SilencerCo has issued an immediate suppressor safety recall for Omega, Hybrid, and Harvester Evo suppressors that could have a welding defect.Feb 7, 2024
I own several suppressors. I have a Rugged Alaskan, Omega 30, and a Yankee Hill. I have a Banish Back Country on order. They are all pretty similar. I am more concerned about the length of the can than I am the noise suppressioin. I can tell you one thing. I will never order another can from the Silencer Shop. I spoke with a gentleman there that was so rude to me. I called about having to buy a $100 accessory for my Rugged Alaskan just to use it. In other words, it did not come with a way to thread it on my barrel and when i inquired about it, they were very short and rude to me. On the other hand, Silencer Central was very polite and have made the purchasing process much more pleasant.
If i can give any advice as far as purchasing suppressors is to have a good understanding of what purpose it is going to serve. My Ti cans are hands down my favorite as I feel it doesn’t add overwhelming weight to the system. The couple on my list for future purchase are : TBAC Ultra 5, Scythe Ti, Nomad Ti, or Alaskan 360 Ti. Short, and almost half a pound is crazy for what you’re getting. Once you realize you really only need a can to take that initial bite off… shorter cans just make more sense - at least that’s my opinion.
Nice photo which also demonstrates something we haven’t been talking about the need for a good suppressor cover. Perhaps not absolutely necessary in a hunting situation but when sighting in at the range, after a couple of shots your view through a regular rifle scope is destroyed by the heat signature
I usually don’t run one on my hunting rigs, but if i do i run the BPG ones - super light and low profile.
Tab Gear makes some great ones i’ve been experimenting with. the SAS3 w/ bungee might be the best setup/design for a cover period (pictured in the photo).
