When I originally started buying suppressors I thought I could buy one and that’s all I needed. Well, that’s not the case. I currently have three 30 Cal suppressors, but one will be given to my son.
I have two Xcaliber mountaineer suppressors. These are local to me (Arkansas). They are 8.5” long and 16oz. They provide good suppression but are a little longer and heavier than I like. The pro for this model is they work on calibers up to .357, so I can use them on our 350 legends and 9mm.
I also have a banish backcountry. I love the weight and size, but I’m not sure how well it suppresses compared to my other two. I’ve only shot it at the range and I’ve worn ear protection because of other shooters.
At this point I want to buy two more suppressors (for now), but since the point of impact changes from suppressor to suppressor, I want to standardize what I buy. What do you guys standardize on? I’m not mag dumping, so full auto is not important.
There seems to be a lot of people that like the banish 30, but it seems a little longer and heavier than I’d like (mainly length at 9”). If you use the smaller configuration, you might be better off with a different suppressor all together.
Second question. The Scythe-Ti shows to have a brake. How does that work with a suppressor? Brakes usually increase the sound…at least for the shooter.
I have 2 of the GSL Multi-Cal suppressors. I really like them and they have an attachment system that allows you to move them from rifle to rifle and not lose zero. I do have to know which suppressor the rifle is zeroed for, but I just write that down on my dope card.
They can attach either directly, with a flash hider, or a muzzle break. I prefer the muzzle break. Without the suppressor it does have more volume at the shooters ear, but with the suppressor attached it is quieter than direct threading to me. I don’t have any way to test the noise reduction, but it seems like the break breaks up the straight line of the gasses and spreads them out.
I hope this helps. I’ll throw in the link for the suppressor and the brake. I use the 5/8x24
So to clarify, you have two of the same suppressors and the point of impact still changes from suppressor to suppressor for the same rifle? I guess I could have tested that with my two Xcaliber suppressors, but I assumed the impact was essentially the same.
The approach I have taken lately now that suppressors are cheaper than before, and a lot easier to get, is basically to say if I’m going to have a suppressor for a certain rifle, I don’t move it around. Each suppressed rifle has its own particular can.
Yes, it’s definitely more expensive that way. But just makes things easier to keep track of. I also don’t suppress every single rifle. I thought it one point I would but I do enjoy having a few rifles that are not suppressed. Don’t have to worry about loaning them out, they are shorter, and they do recoil less with a brake as compared to a suppressor.
I have a Schythe. But actually haven’t put it on the gun yet to see how it works. I was going to put it on a 300 Winchester magnum, but I really don’t shoot that gun very much anymore and I’m thinking about rebarreling it to a 7 PRC. I’m fairly certain it will be louder than a regular can, but kick less. There’s always trade-offs, you always have to rob Peter to pay Paul
I’d like to have four 30 cal cans plus my .22 LR cans. I have three 30 cal cans, but one is for my son. I’m looking for two more for now, but I’d like to start buying the same one.
My left ear has been ringing since I was 13 and I’m 44 now. It hurts to shoot a gun without protection or a suppressor, so I want to suppress everything.
I like the idea of a suppressor for every rifle, but that isn’t cheap.
I had two cans this past season and found my wife and father in-law wanting to use a rifle at the same time me and my son were hunting. Everything I had was sighted in with a can and I only had 2 cans. First world problems, but it was a problem regardless.
I’m pushing 57 and in my 20’s-30’s my only hunting rifle was a 7mm Rem Mag wth a brake. I definitely would wear protection when I would go to the range but never could find a system that worked well for me in the woods. Therefore every time I kill the deer for those two decades, I am now paying the price for it with my hearing.
I even wear protection nowadays when hunting with a suppressed rifle. If I’m shooting a rifle with a muzzle brake, I’m wearing double protection.
If having one can per rifle just isn’t doable, and I can certainly understand that, I would look strongly at one of the systems with a quick detach mount. Not sure what the latest and greatest, most repeatable model is right now. But that way you could at least pair up one can with two, three, whatever rifles and another can with another separate two or three. That way your POI shift would be repeatable every time you switch the can between different rifles.
I don’t have a particular preference on suppressors. Most of mine all seem to perform quite similarly.
Do just want to make the point that the suppressors with brakes are still super quiet. In fact my quietest suppressor is probably a silencerco 8” which has a brake.
I do a combination of direct thread and dead air keymo. I don’t know that any one quick detach system is better than another. To me it makes sense to choose one and stick with that system so that you can mix and match as needed. And then on certain rifles that have a dedicated can, just do direct thread.
Ok, so we buy a light weight rifle for hunting out west.
carbon barrel
carbon stock
material cut out of the action and bolt handle
where do we end up with a quality suppressor 6-8 inches with a quick detach system and a can cover, with a 56mm diameter scope with steel rings…how much does all that weigh? Seems like we are going from 6.5-7.0 traditional platforms to light weight platforms(that cost a lot) to then put most of that weight back on the system (at more cost).
I purchased a 6.5 Creedmoor several years ago with the idea being it was going to be my light and handy rifle. I wasn’t paying attention when I put a scope on it and completely ruined that idea. The scope made the thing completely unwieldy.
Of course the counter argument is that by starting off with a lightweight hunting rifle you can add all of those heavy things to it and end up with an average weight rifle in the end. If you started with an average weight rifle and added all of that stuff you would end up with a heavyweight rifle.
For me, it makes sense to build a western hunting rifle and leave it alone. If suppressed, it stays on that rifle. Direct thread and Blue loctite the threads and call it a day. I’ve tried to do that, but I don’t have the suppressor I want yet. But once I do, that’s it, it won’t go on another rifle.
I need to go listen to my banish backcountry without hearing protection, but I think I want a little more sound suppression.
I’ve looked at suppressor specs until I couldn’t read anymore. I’m using this for bolt guns only. I’m think I’m going to purchase a dead air nomad 30. This is based off weight, length and sound reduction (based off reviews). I’d like it a couple ounces lighter, but I think 14.5 oz and 6.5" long is manageable. More interested in Length than weight.
Anyone have a immediate reaction that I should look at a different suppressor? I figured they are very similar with the exception of the ultra light ones, but there a just so many options available…information overload.
I’ve been very pleased with Griffin Armaments suppressors. They have a sportsmans Ultra light HD that I want to get when I have the money. But it is 6" long and with the direct thread adapter it says it will be under 12 oz. And they have a video that shows the sound testing. using a tikka .308 with 20" barrel firing 175 gr bullet, it reduced the sound by 37.4 db. And the best part, it runs $600
Now I will say they are very hard to find. And they do have a variety of mounting options so technically you could swap as one of them you can use their muzzle brake.