I’m eager to pick up my first new rifle, and I’ve pretty much settled on a Tikka in 6.5 Creedmoor. The Tikka Ace Target has really caught my eye, but I have a few things I’d like to run by those with more experience.
I often hear that longer barrels help maximize a bullet’s velocity. The Ace Target comes with a 26-inch barrel, while the Ace Game has a 24-inch. Does that two-inch difference really make a noticeable impact?
Also, if a 24-inch barrel performs well enough, wouldn’t the Tikka Varmint essentially be the same as the Ace Target—just without the chassis (and with the 24-inch barrel)? My thought is that I could always add a chassis later, once the Backlight becomes available.
Honestly, I think I’m just overthinking things and worrying about making the wrong call, only to realize afterward there was a better choice.
You’re on the right track with this. Tikka Ace in 6.5 creedmoor is a phenomenal combo. You’re right that it’s pretty heavy depending on your use case though.
Typically the quoted number is you lose about 20 to 30 ft per second per inch of barrel loss. However, that’s very general and it varies depending upon the chambering as well as the exact length. Going from 26 to 24 is very different than going from 20 to 18.
Most shots in North Carolina are 100 yards and under. So you don’t really need extra velocity. However your specific case may obviously be different
Almost all ammo manufacturers are using 24” barrels when testing. 26” is usually more common with magnum cartridges–this gives the bullet more runway to burn up all the extra powder so to speak. Most hunters do prefer shorter barrels these days, going down to 22, 20 or even 18”. That’s the trend anyway. But 24” for non-magnum would put you about where the ammo manufacturers expect you to be (even though I think most people choose shorter these days).
I’d say stick with your original thought. Tikka Ace Game in 6.5 Creedmoor. The two inches of barrel will hardly change the velocity. I have done tons of hunting with an 18” 6.5 creed so you’ll be sitting pretty at 24”.
The Tikka chassis is great for the range. If that extra weight bugs you, then add a light chassis or stock that you can put it into for hunting seasons. Only takes 60 seconds to make the switch.
That Tikka Ace Game is a pretty heavy rifle guys. I’d probably use it more for competition or a magnum where some extra weight is beneficial. You’re sitting around 9 lbs without a scope or suppressor.
If you’re going Tikka, I’d go with one of the T3X models and it should give you a lot of options to change the stock down the road.
If you don’t want to change the stock, I’d probably go with a Sako 90. You get some ice quality of life upgrades over the Tikka and I think there’s 3-4 models in that $2k or less range.
I love my new Ace Game. I didn’t like the Varmint, but I thought I would. That barrel made it far too front heavy. But I also ended up with the 7 PRC instead of the 6.5 PRC. It’s essentially a magnum, so I wanted the weight, just not out front.
Currently using factory Hornady ELD-X. Just received my dies yesterday, along with 175 grain ELD-X bullets. I plan to run another two boxes through and then reload the fire-formed brass starting with 66.5 grains of H1000 to see what I can squeeze out of it.
I purchased a Beretta BRX1 chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. Accurate out of the box using Sako Powerhead Blade 120 grain. Rifle is ambidextrous and easy to switch from right- to left-hand in less than a minute. Was originally looking at Sako S20 but not available in left hand. Very happy with the BRX1 and like the ambidextrous features and stock ability to switch manufacturer’s barrels of different calibers.
Jim reviewed the BRX1 a while back.
Photo is at 300 yards with 7 – 10 mph wind from ~10 degrees and only second time using rifle at range.
